Boston's
North End has a remarkable concentration of Italian eateries. Most are
very good, a few are excellent, and among the best is Dolce Vita at
the head of Hanover Street, near the Southeast Expressway. Although
Dolce Vita's roomy dining room is accented with Italianate mirrored
walls, high ceilings, and white linen tablecloths, its fine dining atmosphere
doesn't require a coat and tie. Dolce
Vita features extremely fresh seafood, cooked and served with originality.
Our favorite dish, the Seafood Plate Alexander, isn't on the menu. Says
owner and chef, Franco Graceffa, "My Seafood Plate Alexander consists
of combinations of whatever I can buy that is the best -- mussels, shrimp,
scallops, lobster, and very tender calamari. And I always serve it over
linguine with Fradiavolo sauce of Italian spices, scampi, garlic and
wine, which is something I brought over from Sicily. Because the proportions
vary, we don't like to print it on the menu, but it's always available. At
$27.95, it may be Dolce Vita's highest-priced entrČe, but it is one
of Boston's best, especially when savored with a glass or bottle of
the house wine, a chablis with the brand name of Casa Burgundy, which
is dry and full and will perfectly complement the feast. If
you wish to add an appetizer, we recommend Franco's Antipasto Salad
-- a delightful mix of sliced eggplant doused in salt water, gently
fried in extra-virgin olive oil, marinara sauce, garlic, pepper, cheese
and fresh basil, all mixed with calamari. We like to end the meal with
a dessert called Tiramisu (meaning "pull me up" in Italian),
a layered sponge cake soaked in espresso and rum. Like
any great Italian meal, this one may arouse your olfactory sense before
it reaches your mouth, but that is one of the pleasures of the North
End -- and particularly of Dolce Vita. |
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